Monday, December 21, 2015

Lassie's top 10 memorable drams for 2015 - #5 Now that's a cracker!

In June of 2015 I had the utmost pleasure of touring the Benromach Distillery with Richard Urqhart. It has a long history like many of the others in Scotland but it had a really rocky start. Construction did indeed start in 1898 but spirits didn't start to flow until 1900 and within that same year closed down due to insufficient funds = Whisky bust #1. Like other scottish distilleries it passed through many sets of hands from then until 1983 when it suffered yet another closure from the second economic slump = Whisky bust #2 (I easily found 17 distilleries listed as closed between 1981-1985).  

Gordon & MacPhail bought the distillery in 1993, carefully restored it and new spirit started to flow again in 1998. What I love the most about the story is that G&M have been in business for themselves for over 120 years but had never actually owned or operated a distillery. I would bet my best bottle of whisky this was a huge learning curve for them and came with many interesting stories and lessons. However, if we take into consideration the reputation, pride and quality of their independent bottlings I don't think it comes as a surprise that Benromach whiskies were bound to be great in their own right. 

I was honoured to walk through the refurbished distillery, meet the people who make the whisky and discover just how proud they are about their whiskies. It's truly a small, hands on, up close and personal experience with every mash, distillation and casking. I've said it before, many of the distilleries I've toured are now automated with computers making the decisions about temperatures, pH, cuts and they have very little human interaction other than someone ensuring they are there to push a button or check a computer monitor. I've quickly noticed that many of my favourite whiskies these past few years have been the ones that still have a human connection. www.benromach.com has a fantastic little video if you would like to learn a little more about them: http://www.benromach.com/story

The example I love to give that brings this home for me is making my grandmother's meat pies at Christmas. There is no written recipe and it was taught by feel, taste and sight. I know it's two parts beef for every part pork and that I have to add two onions the size of my fists for every three pounds of meat. I can also tell you exactly when I have to add the cubed potatoes and what color or texture I'm looking for when I start to get the mixture ready to put in the pie crust. The flavour is memorized and of course the pies vary from year to year. There is no set times to cook it, no set list of spices. It's truly a handmade and unique experience every single time I make them and I as well as anyone in my family can tell you they are fabulous & 10X better than what we could buy at the local grocery store.

That's how I feel about a few distilleries I've talked about before: AnCnoc, Springbank, Tomatin and now Benromach joins their ranks. There is much to be said about people who care and are invested in something they are proud of. Methods are passed down from one person to the next and it's done in a way that promotes the importance of quality NOT quantity. I feel it is highly reflected in the products these distilleries make. 

Dram #5 and one of my favourite new drams for 2015:

Benromach 15, 43% ABV.  Matured in ex-bourbon & sherry casks.

SOPHIA... the most georgeous Italian ;)
I once described this as a tall dark and gorgeous Italian... and with good reason ;)

Nose: Pulls you in the glass, enticing with rich red fruits and spices. Plums smothered in vanilla custard and whipped cream. (Made my mouth water)

Palate: Did not disappoint! The sweetness and rich red fruits are still there followed by some dark decadent chocolate and hints of blood orange. Silky and full bodied, truly delectable. 

Finish: Oddly reminded me of a menthol cigarillo. Herbal, maybe eucalyptus and a bit smoky but not much. Lingers and I would dare say quite refreshing.  

I've had this whisky several times since then and have recommended it to many people. Unfortunately it was very limited in Canada with only one province getting a small amount. They brought it to our local whisky festival and it flew off the shelves in less than 2 hours. Unfortunately, I wasn't one of the lucky ones. So, it will be on my list of to "buy and bring home" from Scotland in the new year. 

There is something quite special about the Benromach's coming to market and I can't wait to see what they come out with next. So far, they have done nothing but make some pretty brilliant whiskies:  The 10, the 100 proof, the 15, the organic and the 1976 have all been real crowd pleasers, well I suppose I can only speak about myself so Lassie cracker drams they are! 

Cheers and tomorrow we go full ISLAY! Bring on #4!!!!!

Lassie...   

Friday, December 18, 2015

Lassie's top 10 memorable drams for 2015 - #6 Raise a dram to independent bottlings!

Looking back through my log book and photos for 2015 I quickly realized something about the 406 new drams I tried. Almost 1/3 of those were from independent bottlers. 105 drams to be precise. So how can you overlook that as a whisky enthusiast? I also concluded something else. In North America, Canada, specifically, independent bottlers seem to be as complicated and misunderstood as a Dali. 


























Even more so on the east coast, unfortunately... Here is a typical conversation either at a whisky show or in my own home:

Me: "You love Islay whiskies right, have you ever tried this one before?", I say as I point to a Gordon & MacPhail bottling of Caol Ila. The person looks confusingly at the bottle. 

Them: "What distillery is that from?", they say even more baffled as I hand them the bottle.

So then I start to explain what Gordon & MacPhail is in the simplest way I can: "It's not a distillery, it's an independent company that has really great and long standing relationships with many of the distilleries. They buy it from them directly and then age it in their own warehouses until they see fit to bottle it and then put it out on the market under their own brand name".

They frown and stare at the bottle. "Doesn't look like a bottle of Caol Ila to me?". And... back and forth it goes until finally I simply pour them a dram and say: "Just trust me on this one..." You can almost see the trepidation in the way they try to taste the whisky but then after they are done that first sip you see the light bulb go off. "Wow, this is some pretty good stuff!, they say as they pick up the bottle again for closer and more curious inspection. "Bet it is super expensive though?", they chuckle clinging to the last hope that this is just too good to be true and that's when I turn them into converts. On average, independent bottler's versions of some and yes I say SOME (don't send me nasty comments, hehe) are cheaper than if you buy a DB (Distillery bottling). 

1. G&M Mortlach 21, £57 vs Diageo Mortlach 18, £150.

2. Wemyss Malts Blowing on a Sea Breeze (Bunnahabhain 25), £95 vs Bunnahabhain 25, £195

3. Douglas Laing Laphroaig 25 Cask Strength, £299 vs Laphroaig 25 Cask Strength, £355

There were so many amazing drams for me this year, some of the most memorable were indeed from independent bottlers. I struggled as I went through them all and I thought several times it truly seemed so unfair to just pick one... so I picked 10... I had to... I want people to understand what is out there. What you have the chance to try because not only do independent bottlers have access to many distilleries they also have access to whisky from many closed/mothballed ones as well. Some of which for me this year were truly stunning drams! And here's another thing, if we as Canadians don't start buying these, they can be pulled out of the market all together (has already happened with Compass Box in my own province, sad to say...)

Top 10 Independent Bottler drams, listed in chronological order for 2015:

10. SMWS 25.63 Poire et poivre. Rosebank 21, 59.8% ABV. Tasted at Annabel Meikle's masterclass Jan/15. 

9. Wemyss Malts Waves of Pepper, Clynelish 1997 Kingsbarn Exclusive, 46% ABV. Tasted, purchased and finished in Scotland before we came home! Apr/15.

8. SMWS 3.243 Dark, smouldering Flamenco gypsy, Bowmore 17, 57.1% ABV. Tasted at SMWS event on Islay (And purchased to bring back to Canada) Apr/15.

7. Old Malt Cask (Douglas Laing) Port Ellen 1982, 19 years old, 50% ABV. Opened with pizza on Islay, courtesy of "Johnnie" May/15.

6. SMWS 119.14 Raspberry Imperial Stout. Yamazaki 11 year old, 53.9% ABV. Sent as sample from Dave Alcock (@whiskyrepublic) June/15.

5. Berry Bros & Rudd Ltd. Glen Grant 1940 (YES YOU READ CORRECTLY) No ABV listed and suspected it was bottled sometime in the 50's. Shared at the Lunar Rogue courtesy of Frank Scott. Jul/15.

4. XOP Douglas Laing Port Dundas 36 year old, 59.3% ABV. Private whisky tasting Toronto. Sept/15.

3. Signatory Vintage Dallas Dhu 1978, 19 years old, bottled for World of Whiskies, 43% ABV. Davin de Kergommeaux Master Class Fredericton Nov/15. 

2. Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseur's Choice, Convalmore 1981, 17 years old, 40% ABV. Frank Scott's Chairman's Dram Masterclass, Fredericton Nov/15.

And last... but not least...  


1. Cadenhead's Glen Mhor 32 years old, 53.2% ABV. Opened for SJWTS December tasting - Silent distilleries. Dec/15. 

So here is the thing whisky peeps... Those of us who have either been introduced or discovered independent bottlings are quite often true fanatics. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't mean you won't find a few duds from time to time but on average I can truly say I am rarely disappointed with these lovely discoveries. Do yourself a very large favour: Go to whisky shows, walk up to the tables where the independent bottlers are and TRY their products. Go to their masterclasses because sometimes it's the absolute BEST bang for your buck. 

If you are still skeptic... send me an email and I'll send you a special sample based on what you like. 

Seriously... 

Because sometimes you have to step out of your comfort zone and not judge what's written on the bottle before you try what is inside. 

Get out there and try Independent bottlings. You'll thank me for it. 

Cheers and on to number 5!

Lassie