Lassie's top 12 countdown of 2016 - Number 5, well worth the hype?!

After seeing Rogue One last week, I have to admit I wasn't overly impressed. Cue diving into the camera in slow motion while massive explosions go on, cue the sappy heart string music when Jyn's father dies in her arms. Well, at least she got 10 seconds with him after not seeing him in 16 years. Bla bla bla... Hollywood has ruined so many movies for me these last few years.

Many whisky enthusiasts will tell you that Marketing bullshit was likely just as rampant in 2016. In some cases I would say they were well justified so when Diageo came out with Lagavulin 8 for the 200th anniversary of the distillery, I'm sure a few people rolled their eyes as the marketing team gushed how Alfred Barnard had enjoyed an "exceptional 8 year old" back in 1880 something or other. Of course, others immediately started to complain about the price as well. Me, well... I'm about trying it at least and then making my decision on whether or not what is inside the bottle is worth the money. But, that's me ;)

I landed in London on April 22nd and went directly to my "big brother" Dave's house. After a short nap, a huge feast thanks to Kiat (MY GOD THAT WOMAN CAN COOK!?!), we settled in for a few drams, a proper catch up and a game plan for the next couple of days. When Dave asked what whiskies I wanted to ensure I bring home, first on my list to try and then buy if I liked it was the Lagavulin 8. Try and buy I DID! I didn't open it until June, after I got home where we brought it down to the boat. It was gone by August 1st. IT IS... that good. I want you to also consider the fact that we don't usually drink peated whiskies in the summer either.

Lagavulin 8 year old, 200th anniversary edition bottled at 48% ABV. 

Colour: Barely there, wisp of yellow

Nose: Delicate but the style of Lagavulin is there. More soft on the vanilla and hardly any cereal notes. The peat is not overly aggressive (that was my fear). After it sits in the glass for a few minutes, unripened pears or bananas. There's a bit of "green" in there but it's not unpleasant.

Palate: Alive! This is where the peat comes in. It's organic though, not overly smoky. It reminds me of a wet forest - damp earth and moss. A bit more time in the glass and it does become a bit more shortbread "cooky'ish".  Very nice, oily/buttery.

Finish: Eucalyptus, gingery with smoky overtones. Sweet, peat reek!  Lovely.

OF COURSE WITH LOBSTER!!

We made sure to share this with as many friends as we could over the 2 months we drank it and when it finally made its way to Canada in November, there was a lineup to get a bottle. Luckily, we got ours and it's now safely sitting in the collection. My only regret: Not getting 2, because here in my province it's already all gone....


Highly recommend getting a bottle of this if you haven't already. It may be Lagavulin 16's little brother but my goodness how I wish they would consider keeping this one in their regular line up because this is another Lagavulin done right.


Cheers,

Lassie 

Day 23 - And what should appear but another Samaroli that I hold dear!

Day 23 and my alarm goes off as it usually does on a Friday, however, I’m not getting up to go to work. I am on vacation. So what, pray tell, is the Lassie up so early for?

My lovely husband and I are driving to Boston today (7 hour drive) to go to a New England Patriots game on Christmas Eve. Now, some of you might think that sounds a little crazy right before the big day but honestly, I am not a huge fan of Christmas to begin with so when Graham surprised me with this little trip, well… this Lassie was overjoyed because he knows how much I struggle this time of year. This is exactly the perfect gift for me. Thank you Graham…

So the adventure began early enough where I was running around the house, packing Patriots gear, checking weather reports, getting the animals ready to go stay at “nanny & grampy’s” and packing up a care package for my dear friend Bob in New Hampshire. Car packed by 8:30, a few last minute items to take care of and then run down the stairs to open #23 and #24 (I am not cheating, I won’t be home tomorrow!!) I was stunned to see another Samaroli in my advent calendar, this is really going to be a great trip indeed!!! I won’t reveal what day 24 was, but also excited about that one.

We were on the road by 10:30 am.  Passports? Check! Patriots’ tickets? Check! Whisky & glassware? Check! And…most importantly: Patriots scarf, hat, long johns and jersey CHECK!! We have other things that we need like warm clothes, podcasts downloaded (Hey Mark Gillespie), directions to our hotel and a last minute surprise whisky tasting with our friend Darren McInnis from the North Shore Whisky Club later tonight.

After crossing into the United States through the New Brunswick/Maine border, we listened to a podcast, ate some lunch, talked while Graham drove. It was a sunny and somewhat mild afternoon. The sun glistened on the trees and we both sat in silence, simply mesmerized by the beauty of the scenery around us. It’s rustic, majestic and lovely. We drove through Maine, New Hampshire and arrived in Mansfield to meet our friend Darren at the Norfolk Wine & Spirits where @CachacaDave (Dave Catania) was pouring some Amrut Indian whiskies. 

Meeting the legendary Bikram Singh that I had heard so much about was fantastic. He did not disappoint! If ever you are in the Boston area, a trip to his shop is well worth the effort. Rare, interesting and many "off the beat and path" whiskies from all over the world, including SAMAROLI!!! Thank you Darren for this gem of a find!

Now, speaking of Samaroli, back to my day 23 dram:

Samaroli Peaty Blended Whisky 20 year old, 45% ABV. Refill sherry butt Cask #54.

Colour: Pink gold!

Nose: Another smoky whisky. The peat is a bit more predominant on this one for me. Reminds me of wet dark earth. Not overly sweet on the nose.

Palate: Thick, viscous and again peaty goodness. A bit of creamy lemon on the backdrop. It's a lovely "aged" peated whisky.

Finish: Long lingering and quite satisfying. This could easily be a dram that Graham would love after a cold dog walk in January. 

Another triumph for a Samaroli. I cannot tell you how impressive these are. I'll be talking to Jonathan to see if this is one of the bottle that will be available. 

Check out what he thought at: www.singlemalting.com

As for this Lassie, day 23 was simply phenomenal. I love the #whiskyfabric and can't wait to tell you what is in store for tomorrow.

Cheers lovely people!!

Lassie

   

Guest post - The Spellers give advice about visiting Islay during Feis Ile

My favourite story about the Spellers is the one I tell about my mother's reaction when I explained in 2014 that we were staying with people in Scotland we had met on the internet. Of course, to my mother's generation meeting individuals on the internet is just as bad as hitchhiking on a freeway and getting in a car with a total stranger. It didn't matter that Graham and I had an online relationship with them for about a year beforehand or that we had skyped a few times over coffee/breakfast routines, etc.. (I didn't even try to explain skype to her!?) But I digress.... ;)

Friends & adopted family!

The Spellers quickly became friends. We've been through some interesting trips with them and we've survived the fantastic, the bad and the ugly together. I consider Ansgar a sister of sorts and Thomas makes me laugh until my ribs hurt. They are not just 'virtual' friends anymore, they are family to me and for as long as I live I will ensure that we get to hang out at every opportunity. This year marks my 3rd road trip with them and I couldn't be prouder to have them featured on my blog. The Spellers travel, blog and experience their entire whisky journey together - always. That's pretty cool I think and gives a perspective that is different than most as it forces them to constantly work as a team, evaluate options together and in the end their choices often make for the best #whiskyfabric opportunities. I asked them to answer my questionnaire about Feis Ile as they were 'pros' having been there more often then the rest of us. I couldn't have imagined being on Islay without them, they truly made the experience magical for all of us in the house we rented together. 

Without further ado... The Spellers 

( http://whiskyspeller.blogspot.ca/ )

"Johanne asked us to share our opinions about the Feis Ile 2015 festival, the island and the people. She knows us a little so it may explain why she gave us questions to answer instead of letting us babble on about details that were not related to the point she was hoping to make, like did you know that Graham and Johanne were married by Jim McEwan during the trip to Feis Ile, peanuts aren’t really nuts at all and milk comes from cows? (Some of these facts are untrue.) Here we go...

The most enjoyed and appreciated things about visiting Islay?

Easy, Islay is awesome. People living there are living on Islay time; if things do not turn out as expected today, they might tomorrow. If there has been a storm, chances are half the island is without water or electricity, and common sense dictates you roll up your sleeves and help your neighbours, loved ones, or the people you do not know.

Besides that, the nature and wildlife are superb. You might not know it as a whisky enthusiast, but besides its whisky, Islay is well known for the (rare) bird population, and attracts many birdwatchers year round. Put on a rucksack and your hiking shoes and you can do many days without seeing any lifeform save the many sheep and deer (even more so when you are to include the neighbouring island of Jura), enjoying the raw and untouched nature.

The best kept secret of the island?

The mythical 'steering wheel wave'. It is impossible not to join in after fifteen minutes in your car. ;)

Should every whisky geek attend Feis Ile at least once? Or maybe every year?

Short answer: yes, and then no. Longer answer: yes, we think every whisky geek should at least once to do this pilgrimage and enjoy the festivities the distilleries pull out of their top hats. There are eight distilleries in a relatively small area, nine if you include Jura again, which also has their own festivities during Feis Ile too. In one long and enduring week, every day has its own distillery theme, and next to these events, there are many more organized by the locals. Should a whisky geek do this every year? No. At least not for us. We have been to Islay three times, two of which during the festival, and we find the magic of the island is quite different without the whisky minded people. Better? We don’t know, but (even) more relaxed? Most definitely. We have already said we are taking a break from Feis Iles to come, and will be returning to Islay off-season at some point. At another point we will most likely be there again during a festival week though, even if it would be only for the many #whiskyfabric meetings.

Best options for accommodations during the festival?

If you are on a budget, the obvious choice is to stay in one of the camping areas, or, with more certainty of dry feet, the Hostel in Port Charlotte. If you manage to book on time, the best options are the luxury cottages in Bowmore, at Octomore Farm or at the Ardbeg distillery, but you will burn a big part of your whisky budget there. For us, the best option was to rent/share a self- catering cottage.

Bringing our own car made it easier to pick a location just outside the larger towns. It allowed us to save a few dollars, enjoy nature as well as the peace and quiet the island offers. This site helped us a lot in our search, but be aware of spots that are pointed out as “romantic, nostalgic or with old features” can also indicate the utilities may be somewhat... ehm... primitive. You have to be aware and prepared that on the island a storm can be cut off by a storm or that the water supply to the cottage comes from a burn up the hill and if it has not rained for a bit, the water simply runs out.

If you are not bringing your own car you will have to depend on public transport so we recommend staying in Port Ellen or Bowmore where access to the bus is easiest. If you consider renting a bicycle be very aware the hills are steeper then they seem and the wind so much stronger then you might think. It also rains on Islay, but unlike other places we have visited, it does so horizontally (not kidding). It is much easier to plough through the torrential weather and stampedes of cows/ sheep crossings in the safety of a car.

Ok, so you are at Feis Ile. What distillery day is than the first or last on the list to visit?

Where to go for sure? Easy -> Bruichladdich and Ardbeg. They are the biggest parties during the festival and are a guarantee for a lot of fun. Bunnahabhain gets a mention on the go-to list. Good people there, throwing together a great atmosphere. 

What day to skip? We would say on the current experiences we had that would be Caol Ila. It was fun but we could not feel the passion and fun flowing around the courtyard as we did during the other distillery day festivities and we also skipped Bowmore day because, well, we are just not big Bowmore fans.

What to recommend if you only have the 3 first days, or just 1, to spend during Feis Ile?

If you can’t make it to Feis Ile for the whole festival but only the first days then make sure to have a little dance and some drams with Pinky at Lagavulin, eat some fresh fish at the Seafood Shack, do a tour at the Port Ellen maltings (only available during the festival) and end with an ‘Artisan Octomore’ burger and dram at Bruichladdich. Don’t go if you only have one day to spare for the island during Feis Ile because you will only end up changing the rest of your plans and calling in sick so you can stay the whole week to do more. The island is not that big, but it does take time to get from the one side to the other and you will want to stop to roll around in the peat bogs to make peat angels or chill at one of the beautiful white beaches. In both cases you will start banging your head against a wall in regret when you are only there for a quick visit. Quick anything and Islay do not match.

Kilchoman. Visit, yes or no?

After doing this a few times we would not recommend doing so during the festival. That is based on our own experience due to:

ZE ZHERMANZ*!

You see, first there is the small fucking road with all the potholes and when you think those are done you find more potholes as well as walls, corners you can’t look around, sheep, idiots with humongous camper vans and don’t even think of spaces to try and pass. Yes… We went there, but for us, not ever again during the festival. There are simply too many idiots that think they are on the German Autobahn so, we will pass and recommend the same for anyone thinking of going.

The best distillery tour received on Islay?

The best ever distillery tour on Islay we received was also the one we sort of gave at Laphroaig during their Feis Ile 2015 day. Sharing the #whiskyfabric passion and love and showing our friend Jo Lawson around her favourite Islay distillery was amazing. We started backwards (starting at the stills, ending not making malt angels on the malt floor), just having lots of fun and laughs. Those are the lasting memories that make our Feis Ile experiences a success. Where to wander off to for some other great tours? Go to Bruichladdich for a warm welcome, or to Ardbeg, Lagavulin or Bunnahabhain. All with their own charm, history and wonderful tour guides.

Of the people we were fortunate enough to meet on Islay, _____ stands out the most because...

The island may be called the Queen of the Hebrides, but she houses some wonderful kings and queens. We were fortunate enough to have met "La Reine de L’Alambic" (the queen of the stills) Martine Nouet before, and were invited to her house where we met Norma Munro with her golden voice. The lady with the shop besides Islay Ales sold us some amazing marmalade, and the woman in the tiny soap store in Bowmore explained in detail how we could easiest go to the young lady running Outback Arts, beyond the road to Kilchoman. We were welcomed at (almost) all of the distilleries as if we were family, were driven around the island by Bruichladdich’s own Carl Reavey and had one or two drams with our Canadian, English and Dutch friends at the house we shared with them, and last but not least, with many of the Austrian, Danish, German, Japanese, Israeli, Belgian, American, and too many other nationalities to mention #whiskyfabric friends.

Most valuable piece of advice? And something about budget…?

It sounds crazy when you know what we said so far about Islay and planning, but plan ahead as much as possible on accommodations during the festival. One year in advance is not crazy, especially when you may be coming over with a group. Keep in touch with distilleries and monitor social media about Islay and the festival program(s), and make sure you book the ferry well in advance. Don’t wait until the last minute to make arrangements and most of all: don’t try to do too many events. Take some time to breathe in the Islay air. This Islay website is not always the quickest to be up to date but gives good feedback on how and what is there.

Budget wise? Well, set a budget because you will be tempted to buy all the distillery festival bottlings, especially when you are driving your own car (trust us, we know). Set yourself a reasonable budget in advance, keep track of your purchases and stop when you reach your limit. Most important: when you buy a bottle, open it and share it, either during the festival, or back home with your friends that could not make it to come with you. Please do not sell the bottles for a quick buck, and give the wrong example.

The most surprising thing about Feis Ile and/or Islay?

Winds - 80km/h - not kidding!?

Not Feis Ile per se, but Islay - like the rest of Scotland, has some surprises up her sleeves. When you do not like the current weather or location, drive another five minutes and your surroundings will most likely have changed from the rough seashore to an (almost) Caribbean beach, including weather type. Once you have seen the colour of the Bruichladdich bottle in Loch Indaal, or the beautiful village of Portnahaven with waters dancing with shimmering sun or the forests beyond Ardbeg distillery you might know what we mean. Locals pouring you a generous dram (often at 11 in the morning), handing you a dry towel (weather permitting) or as we mentioned before experiencing the magic of the steering wheel wave, these are only things you experience when on Islay. 

Go there. As so many before us and many more to come... Make that pilgrimage, you won't regret it!

Bruichladdich Day crowd madness ;)

With love,

Thomas and Ansgar Speller

WhiskySpeller

*not just Germans, tourists in general, including ourselves.

And so I saved the best of the guest blogs about Islay/Feis Ile for last. I think Ansgar and Thomas provided the most complete list of what to do, expect and possibly experiencing if you do decide to go. But.. if you've been following along, you'll note we have all pretty much said the same thing:

1. Don't wait until the last minute to book anything (especially accommodations).

2. Expect the island to be brimming with idiots, friends, whisky and delays...  LOTS of delays.

3. Plan your days carefully as there is so much to do, see and share.

I do hope these guests blogs as well as my own musings give a better indication of what to expect when on Islay during Feis Ile. It's a magical place where anything can happen, including meeting some of your biggest whisky heroes as well new ones! 

Cheers,

Lassie

JO LAWSON Guest blog: FEIS ILE = A Free Dram and a Piece of Cake, does not a celebration make!

Continuing with what many others thought of FEIS ILE this year, Jo Lawson (@alpacajo) was with us and like myself she had never been to Islay before. There were many days spent laughing and sharing some really great moments together. Personally, I can't imagine what it might have been like without her there. 

Ladies and gents, my friend Jo Lawson's rendition of the 10 question survey I sent out:

Question 1: I think every whisky geek should attend Feis Ile at least once because: You can't call yourself a true whisky geek if you haven't queued for 15 hours each time, often in the cold and rain, for: Beer, food, toilets, free whisky and often expensive whisky! 

Question 2: What was the best distillery day for you personally? For me I think the best day was Bruichladdich! There was just so much going on: Jim's Masterclass, distillery tours, music, food, local crafts, a beer tent, friends - old and new to meet and greet and everyone just having a right good old time. A proper celebration.

Question 3: What distillery day would you have a hard time recommending? As a true blue, or rather green and white fan of this distillery, it breaks my heart to have to say Laphroaig! The 200th anniversary celebration - A free dram and a piece of cake does not a celebration make!? Where was the music? Where were the people dancing? Where were the distillery tours?? 

Oh, they got booked up in what seemed like minutes of going on sale!?? Well, why weren't extra activities put on? Surely the distillery knew their events would sell out!? All in all, very disappointing!

Question 4: What did you appreciate the most about visiting Islay? The friendliness of almost everyone I met, local or visitor. The locals seemed to view the invasion of hundreds of crazy whisky geeks with good humour and understanding of those of us, like Thomas Speller, that were in search of a new frying pan! As to my fellow visitors, the whisky provided the starting point for many conversations, even if you hadn't met the 11 large Danish men you were touring Bowmore with, before!

Question 5: Of all the people you were fortunate enough to meet on Islay, the one(s) who stand out the the most was/were? Martine Nouet, whose house (the 6 of us staying in our wee cottage) we were invited to dinner with, one evening. Martine is truly a friendly and generous person who shares her vast knowledge of food, drinks, and the pairing of the two with anyone who asks. She welcomed a group of almost complete strangers into her home and made them feel very welcomed. One of the fellow dinner guest was Norma Munro. Hundreds of us had heard Norma sing at Bruichladdich on the Sunday, but that evening at Martine's, this kind and gentle lady (despite being seriously ill) shared her amazing talent with us, in the most intimate of settings. She has the most beautiful and expressive voice, which moved many present, including myself, to tears. These two ladies epitomise the people I met on Islay - Welcoming, friendly and generous of spirit.

Question 6: If you only had the 3 first days of Feis Ile to recommend what would you say? 

Bruichladdich distillery day for all the reason I mentioned earlier, but make sure you get on one of the distillery tours. A visit to Kilchoman so that you can appreciate the differences and similarities between a long established and new distillery. Some time to experience what else Islay has to offer, apart from distilleries. Its history, scenery and wildlife.

Question 7: Which distillery tour was the best? Laphroaig!! Despite the official events being rather non-existent, my first ever tour, of this, my favourite distillery, starting at the stillhouse and travelling back through the process of distilling, conducted by two my best whisky friends: Ansgar & Thomas Speller. It was brilliant fun with "someone" stealing me a very small piece of peat - SSSSH! As to any other shenanigans that went on, well, you just had to be there!

Question 8: What surprised you the most about Feis Ile? How quickly the accommodations booked up! I was very fortunate that Ansgar and friends had a bed available in their cottage because by the time I decided in January of 2015 that I was definitely going there were very few affordable accommodations left!

Question 9: After your first visit to Feis Ile the most valuable piece of advice you can give is? If you are thinking of going to Feis Ile for 2017 (yes 2017) BOOK YOUR ACCOMMODATIONS NOW! 

Question 10: What do you think the best kept secret is about Islay? The island itself. To any whisky drinker who has never been there, Islay may seem to be just about the distilleries but is truly is so much more than that. There is a rich history of human occupation, beautiful and varied scenery and a diverse array of wildlife. It is one of those special places that works its way into your heart so that the moment you step on the ferry and it begins to pull away from the island you are already planning your next visit. 

Right... that's it from me.  Thanks to Johanne for letting me share my Feis Ile thoughts with an unsuspecting world.  Me - I'm off back to Islay.... ;)

HUGE THANKS to Jo Lawson. Again, I will stress the importance of talking to a myriad of people if you are looking to get as much information about Feis Ile because as Jo stated: It's not just a free dram and a piece of cake that will make the celebration!

Cheers all!

Lassie

Fèis íle - Part 2, Bruichladdich throws down a proper hoedown!!!

I must have heard it a hundred times: "You are going to Fèis ìle! Oh you can't miss Bruichladdich day!" I would look at the festival's schedule and honestly Bruichladdich Day didn't seem all that different than the other distillery days listed? Music, tastings, food, tours and special distillery bottling over the course of one day. Ok? So what was the big deal...

People started to warn me about getting tickets the minute they went on sale. There would be a tasting in the warehouse with Jim McEwan for 400 people. Ok, surely there would be tickets available for that? Seriously... how popular could that one day be over the rest. Turns out... PLENTY!

I was still skeptical and apparently didn't really understand what we were getting ourselves into. I started asking a few 'veterans' what exactly was so special about Bruichladdich day? The answer was as plain as the nose on my face it seemed? It's one of the first days of the festival, most of the locals attend (they don't attend many of the other days apparently) AND it's the best day of the festival. Again, in the back of my mind I was thinking 'really... the best?' So once more, skepticism in hand I asked my friend Martine who lives there: "Which distillery open day should I ensure I don't miss?" and without hesitation she answered Bruichladdich. That sealed it (I'm a bit stubborn it seems... ;)

By February 2015 the online banter was growing to a fever pitch and I found myself caught up in it as well. Discussions were taking place in Facebook groups, private forums and between many whisky enthusiasts worldwide. I... was ready! Tickets ordered and day planned, I blew across my credit card like it was a smoking gun! Smug I was, but impatient because the trip was still 3 full months away. I've already discussed day one of my arrival to Islay:  Part 1

So I'm going to skip over day 2 as a few things will be mentioned in a later post about it and go straight to day 3 - BRUICHLADDICH DAY. We woke up that morning and already there was 'a six kids waiting to open their Christmas presents atmosphere' in the cottage. So excited were some of us that we could barely sit long enough to even have breakfast. Showered, dressed and ready at the door at 9:00am with our backpacks, cameras, tickets and flags (yes our country's flag). As mentioned in part 1, we were within stumbling, errr I mean walking distance of Bruichladdich. The Spellers left first and the four of us followed shortly thereafter. 

As we turned on to the main road we were greeted or should I say we greeted friends like Klaus Doblmann (@MaltKlaus), http://dokla.net/dailydram/ and his brother Johannes (@johndoblmann) and walked to the distillery in step. It may sound odd to people who are not enthusiasts but starting the day with a whisky tasting in a warehouse is like telling a chocoholic they get 3 hours in the world's most best chocolate shop... But I digress! We arrived at the distillery and made our way up the hill by following the stream of people doing the same thing. 

There were flags from all fours corners of the earth as we all marched in to the sounds of country music blaring over the speakers. I saw people from Japan, New Zealand, USA, Germany and Australia. Truly a worldwide representation of people attending this event. Bruichladdich staff decked out in their finest cowboy gear and the warehouse was decorated to the very top of the walls. Banners, photos, stage set up, camera crews and wall to wall people! I had never seen anything like it?!  It took about an hour but eventually all 400 of us were seated and the morning began. I think Graham summed it up best when he said: "Jim McEwan came in and was greeted like he was a southern baptist minister". People were on their feet waving their hands, clapping, singing, whistling and hundreds of cameras were taking photos. The place was on fire like a true barn burner! (My apology to you "city folk" who don't know what that is?!)

What followed was a full 3 hours of stories, whiskies, songs and a fantastic way to start off Bruichladdich day. My favourite pick of the six whiskies we were fortunate enough to try: Bruichladdich 1984, Ex-bourbon cask. 51.5% ABV. (My daughter's birth year as well)

Nose: Rich tropical fruit salad. Hints of coconut with a subtle honeyed vanilla in the backdrop. On the palate: Powerful, bold an quite punchy! Lovely oily mouth feel, smooth and sweet. The finish had a lemon meringue pie quality that lingered. Really a lovely dram and great way to start the tasting (that's right we started with the oldest whisky first)

Like all good things, it was over before we knew it and it was time to head down to the rest of the festivities. 

The courtyard was set up with a large stage/sitting area, there were tents filled with drams to try, food trucks were parked on the other side waiting to feed the hungry masses, music was in the air, people were mingling and the lineup to get into the shop was long but moving quickly. After a three hour session one must eat... and eat I did. I started with langoustines, fresh crab legs and when that didn't satisfy the belly, I moved on to meat on a bun smothered in hot sauce. Fully fueled, we continued to walk around the grounds to meet people, enjoy the day and drink plenty of whisky. Somewhere in the festivities, some of us were called up on stage and introduced as #whiskyfabric women and we were most fortunate to have our photo taken with Mr. McEwan. And as you can see from the photo, the courtyard was packed! 

The rest of the day was spent wandering around, dancing, meeting people, sharing drams and having a fantastic time. 

Now... for the important lessons I learned that day. 

One: I will always, forever, exude my #whiskyfabric motto. What does that mean? Well in the event you live under a rock... ;) I am part of a larger fabric of people from all walks of life that exists in a passionate brother/sister hood of all things whisky.

Several times during the course of that day I enjoyed greeting, meeting, hugging, embracing, sharing moments in one capacity or the other.

Case in point: While at the warehouse whisky tasting, a young man was sitting next to Graham. He was fairly quiet but we noticed he was wearing a jacket with the name of the tall ship (Thalassa) that was tied up at the wharf in front of the distillery so of course we struck up a conversation with him (sailors/whisky, woot woot!!) He was very happy to be there but mentioned his dad (skipper) would have loved to have been there as well. So, I pulled out a few sample bottles and said: "I'm not drinking some of these so if you want to bring a few to your dad, we can fill them up".  So, between the three of us we filled 3 sample bottles for the skipper.  He thanked us and we didn't see him later around the grounds.

BUT... when we left at the end of the day, I said to Graham: "Do you want to go down to the wharf and see Thalassa up close"...  Duhhhhh!  So away we went, walking down to the water's edge to admire the beautiful tall ship. It's a privately owned/operated vessel so we simply watched from the dock and took a few pictures when low and behold the same young man recognized us and motioned for us to come forward. We talked for a few minutes, I gave him a few more whisky samples and he took a quick look around and said: "Would you like to come on board for a few minutes and get a quick tour"...  Graham's eyes lit up like a little kid at Christmas and the next thing I knew we were touring the entire ship. We entered the wheelhouse and were introduced to the skipper who thanked us profusely for the whisky samples (he doesn't get to go onshore much because of his job/responsibility to the chartered guests). Then the schedule clock ticked down and they had to leave. We disembarked, thanked the young man yet again for his kindness to which he replied: "Simply paying back the kindness you bestowed upon me". 

So, don't ever underestimate the kindness that you pass along as a #whiskyfabric weaver!

Lesson Number Two: After spending an entire day of being enveloped in the kindness and whisky spirit at Bruichladdich, we decided to go to supper with the Spellers at the Bridgend Hotel: http://bridgend-hotel.com/. As mentioned in part 1, everything is full to capacity during Fèis ìle so we knew we were taking a chance going without a reservation. We arrived and the hostess advised they didn't have anything available at the moment but seated us in the lounge and we ordered drinks. 

We proceeded to blather on about the day and how perfect it was. Then for some reason (I can't remember now) Graham went online to look something up when an email popped up. Now, fair to say, my partner isn't the type to get emotional or overreact so when he gasped out loud, went white as a sheet and was speechless I knew something horrible had happened. All he could do was pass me the phone and I read the devastating news. A founding member of our local whisky society and very good friend has passed away. The very difficult part was that he had recently been given the all clear after a two year battle with bowel cancer. 

Robert had gone back to work and was healthy as a horse when we left on May 15th... Eight very short days later he was gone. 

I sat half a world away, crippled in shock and sadness thinking of his wife Daphne, our friends, our society members. Robert Rae was the first member to pass away in the 5 years that we have existed as a society. 

Graham and I regained our composure and I can't speak for him but the rest of that night was spent hanging on every word that Ansgar said to me. I watched as Thomas devoured his meal with gusto and noticed how his eyes lit up when he and Graham dove into the plate of oysters. The art in the room seemed bold and even more beautiful. It was as though all of my senses suddenly seemed heightened. I was entranced in the fact that I had lost someone that was very dear to us but yet at the same time drinking in every aspect of the evening with two very good friends. Right down to how orange the carrots seemed in Graham's plate. Might sound silly, but that's how it truly felt...

We thanked our lovely hostess for sneaking us in that night. If ever you go to Islay, I highly recommend you go to Bridgend for at least one meal (we loved it so much we went for two... ;) The service there is absolutely stupendous and the food was utterly delightful and delicious.

Back at the cottage, Graham pulled out some Ardbeg and the four or us toasted Bob (it was his favourite whisky) as we sat in silence for a moment in the remembrance of friends, whisky and memories made. 

So please, remember to appreciate every day of your life as some will never have had the greatest gift of growing old...

Dr. Robert E. Rae (1953-2015) 

I will always remember Bruichladdich day as the best of Fèis ìle for several reasons. The distillery day left me wanting for nothing: Great whisky, a sense of community commitment, friends, kindness, exuberance of being alive and appreciation for every single moment may it be fantastic or devastatingly sad.

A toast to Jim, may you actually stay retired this time. A toast to those who have gone before us, may we remember how they touched our lives for as long as we live and lift your glasses this evening and toast repeatedly the friends that surround us now and make us the people we are...  

These people crack me up.... and I love them very much for it!!!

Thank you Bruichladdich for giving me exactly what everyone had said I would get: A huge Islay welcome and one of the most unforgettable days spent on our trip.




Lassie

Fèis íle, the arrival - Part 1...

Islay is much more than an island off the main coast of Scotland. It is place unlike many people today have experienced because most of us live in large faceless cities where the word community has been lost or forgotten. Ileachs rely on each other for their survival. It's where a neighbour leaves a note that they took a few tomatoes but left a dozen stalks of rhubarb as payment or hundreds of people show up to help mend a blown down fence. It's where the weather dictates what you may or may not be doing for an entire weekend and if you check to make sure some of the more remote homes still have power and food. And, it's an island where it's a must to raise a few fingers to every car that passes yours on your travels. 

Be warned: When you land on Islay, you are officially on 'Islay time'.

Islay has been on my list to visit since 2009. I was super excited to finally make it happen in 2015 thanks to Ansgar and Thomas Speller. Two very good friends that invited us along for their adventure. The planning stages started in 2014 after we had spent a magical two weeks in the Speyside area of Scotland. Knowing how well the four of us got along made it an easy choice and we signed up for two weeks of a self catering cottage near Bruichladdich immediately. 

Of course to the rest of the whisky geeks in the world, we all know what Islay means: PEAT HEADS UNITE!!!  It's the ultimate pilgrimage to where gigantic fields of bogs are ageing as quietly and slowly as some of the whiskies and it's where Fèis íle happens every year in May. The island swells to capacity to the point where all the banking machines run out of money and some of the shelves at the small grocery stores are left almost bare. Where the staff at restaurants do their best to seat, serve and feed the loads of visitors that didn't make reservations with a smile and many apologies for being so full. Where you might not get on or off the island because the ferries are weather landlocked. But hey, you are on Islay time... so you roll with the punches, get to know your neighbour and share your happiness and whiskies with friends.

Friday May 22th we arrived at the ferry terminal to reunite with the Spellers... With tears of joy in my eyes and lots of "little girl" shrieking I hugged them tightly with excitement and true happiness. We all boarded the ferry and made our way to the lounge for breakfast and a quick catch up. As we got closer to the island we all decided to go outside to look around. But as luck or maybe Islay time would dictate we were enveloped in a mist of heavy thick fog with only small glimpse of sky or ground from time to time and then on cue, it seemed, we were approaching the ferry terminal and the fog had lifted just enough that we could see the outline of some of the distilleries. One by one, they came to life and were no longer just photos I had seen. We were finally "here"...

A quick lunch at Ardbeg (HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT), then a drive to the grocery store for provisions and off to the cottage to unload, relax and make supper together (we all love to cook and eat!) We had a few roommates we were anxious to see that would be arriving a little later in the evening: Jo Lawson (@alpacajo) and Crystal Coverdale (@EdgyLassie), both of which I consider very good friends of mine. Our cottage was spectacular! Lots of space, nice rooms, a fireplace, a great kitchen, within walking distance to Port Charlotte, Bruichladdich and with a stunning view of Bowmore across Loch Indaal. Supper cooked, eaten and off to our very first adventure:

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society was marking their first visit to Fèis íle with the release of a commemorative bottling as well as a full day of activities at Islay House. We all chose to meet up at the Evening of Live Jazz event. Cost 10£. A four hour event where great jazz was played and sung while we experienced some of the latest SMWS releases, ate ice cream that paired smashingly well (I must admit) and had plenty of space to sit, stand or congregate on the grounds.

One by one, our beloved #whiskyfabric friends arrived and we cheered, toasted and drank with every new participant joining the group. The music was lovely, the company divine and the setting perfect. 

I was feeling like the evening was exactly as it should be: Spent with friends, sharing drams and looking forward to glorious times and memories about to be made together. We came back to the cottage and spent the rest of the night laughing and talking into the wee hours, as most of us were quickly acclimatizing and loving Islay time. 

This was the first time SMWS was partaking in Fèis íle so I do hope they do it again in the future because it was a great way to start the festival and the price tag was fantastic! Well organized, great venue, excellent value for $$. I would highly recommend this as a "must attend" event.

First whisky purchased SMWS 3.243 Dark, Smouldering Flamenco Gypsy


Available as a limited release for Fèis íle. This is a Bowmore 17 year old, bottled at 57.1% ABV, one of 594 bottles. Price paid 80£


I think many people will agree with me when I say that Bowmores can be a lovely triumph or a huge disappointment if you don't like the lavender soap sometimes found in older bottlings.  I mostly tend to find this on the palate of the 80's distillations.  I was glad to see this made in the late 90's.

Nose: A delicious smoked meat sandwich with rich sherry overtones. Quite beautiful on the nose.

Palate: Sweet peat!! Roasted coffee beans and bits and pieces of roasted almonds. Rich and full mouth feel!

Finish: Long, lingering with smoky anise seed. Very pleasant and tasty.


Well as our first purchase, I really felt like we got ourselves a bargain. My one regret: Didn't get two bottles!


So that I suppose is one of the things you learn about being on Islay... Take it easy, don't regret too much and simply be in the moment of Islay time.  Until next week...  


Lassie...