Mortlach event & new whisky review - Is it really worth the $$?

<---Was it? Is it still? 



As most of you well know, in late 2013 Diageo announced they would be expanding their portfolio and introducing four new Mortlach Single Malt Expressions. Let me remind you what those were: Rare Old, Special Strength, an 18 and 25 year old. 
Ohhhh the buzz that created!!!! The #whiskyfabric came alive and social media exploded. Then in March of 2014 came the announcement of their size (500ml), cost (£55, £75, £180 & £600) and where they would be sold (targeted travel retail). The outcry, backlash and public outrage from people and some that I like to call "trolls" lasted for weeks, some going as far as personally attacking the newly appointed ambassador, Miss Georgie Bell. A few, and I'm quoting, felt it was their "mission to preach and warn whisky drinkers" of the impeding doom. The strings of "how dare they" tweets were endless and honestly after a few days (for me personally) became quite boring. Can you say "Lassie tuned out!" No mass whisky samples being mailed out, no race for bloggers to tweet about their latest "free" samples and how AMAZING they were. Not many people writing about them at all it seemed but LOTS of people screaming about the injustice of it all.

Not long after that, it was announced on the Spirit of Speyside site that Georgie would be hosting a Mortlach event at Drummuir Castle in Keith and I jumped at the opportunity. Why? Because I can afford it and I wanted to taste these 4 whiskies for myself - I'm a huge Mortlach fan. Cost for the event = £75. Let me share with you what followed:

• We were a group of 10-12 people and they provided a complimentary shuttle bus service (bonus - responsible event management). We arrived at the impressive Drummuir Castle at 12:30. It's a lovely example of Victorian style architecture and is quite a breathtaking setting. Georgie Bell greeted us at the door and ushered us into the lobby where we were told about the history of the castle as well as how it's been used by Diageo in the present day.
  
• The first part of the event was to introduce us to the four new whiskies. A little presentation, a little history and relevant stories about each whisky. Typical tasting format... LET ME TRY THE WHISKIES!!! (That was my inner voice of course). Then we were allowed to start.

Rare Old up first 43.4% ABV: This whisky is created by using several different casks: Some were 1st fill ex-bourbon, refill ex-bourbon, ex-sherry as well as few heavily charred casks.

Nose: I found this to be a typical Mortlach, full bodied, dark chocolate meets "meaty earthy" smell. Rich, so rich! Palate: Stewed prunes, baking spices and a bit of woody tannic feel. Finish: Bold, long, luscious!  


Special Strength 49% ABV: This whisky uses the same types of casks as the Rare and Old but bottled it at a higher ABV.

Nose: Tropical fruit salad: Papaya, mangoes, coconut and lots of honey. I was stunned. THIS IS NOT the Mortlachs I am used to drinking... Palate: This is almost oily, syrupy in nature. Again, a bit taken aback. It was quite savoury but more sweet and tannic in nature. The finish was super drying and I swear I could taste a bit of chewing tobacco? What an enigma? Honestly, had someone given this whisky to me blind I doubt very much I could have identified it as a Mortlach. Very little of my "key indicators" were there?

18 Year Old 43.4% ABV: Combination of 1st fill European oak, American hogshead & refill European oak casks.

Nose: And back to Mortlach profile... (hehe) Meaty, earthy, a bit of tomato plant or tobacco leaves, sweetness at the back almost floral. Palate: SPICY! Fennel seeds (my favorite) followed by this lovely creamy silky butterscotch cream (Werthers Original Candy). Finish: A bit of Seville orange bitterness, but long and spicy.

25 Year Old 43.4% ABV: Matured solely in refill American Oak Barrels.

Nose: This was intoxicating. It reminded me of warm Indian spices and sandalwood scented candles. Some almond oil, "clean nutty". Became creamier in the glass with time - vanilla crème brulée'ish. Palate: Ripe red cherries dipped in milk chocolate followed by candied ginger, peppery but sweet. Finish: This stayed with me for a while. It was long, oily, tannic after taste but just lovely.

• Now that we had the chance to try them "naked" for the lack of a better term (the whiskies, not us... of course!), we were invited to move along to the next portion of our afternoon. The large group moved along to a lovely sitting room/parlor where we were given another dram of the Rare Old served with amazing spiced duck/walnut cheesecake bites and fennel beignets. I cannot begin to describe how well paired this whisky was. The meaty flavors of the whisky rounded the cheese and duck in a manner I did not expect. If you dared pop a fennel beignet in your mouth and drink a bit of the Rare Old, there was a flavor explosion of licorice. Not a word was spoken, but the look on people's faces were priceless. The Special Strength was then brought out for our second round of enjoyment and paired with mini bread & butter puddings and Badentoy blue cheese on gingerbread. Again, the room looked stunned as they drank the whisky and popped the culinary creations. I heard one man say: "I've never enjoyed whisky like this before". That about summed up the sitting room experience in my opinion. Little was I to know what was coming next.

• We then followed Georgie down to the wine cellar, which was lit with long tapered candles and had an ambiance of the days of yesteryear. A round table was placed in the middle with the bottle of the 25 year old. More drams poured ( a full ounce!) and then the food pairings arrived: A caramelized butternut squash soup drizzled in pumpkin seed oil, served in an exquisite crystal shot glass. The second appetizer: Rolled crepes stuffed with fresh crab. When we were upstairs, the room was quiet, this was completely the opposite. People began to talk and moan loudly with pleasure. Again, my mind was exploding with thoughts as my mouth tried to keep up with the flavors being released!

    

• We didn't want to leave but reluctantly we moved along to the next whisky and room. On to the games room for yet another dram, the 18 year old. Georgie placed two chocolates: An orange & clove velvet truffle as well as a coconut dusted velvet truffle. Again, the room was opulent to say the least. The billiards table was bigger than my first car! The chocolates were of the highest quality I recall ever tasting. The chef and people who put this day together were brilliant. The setting, the food, the whiskies and the presentation screamed LUXURIOUS and I felt absolute giddiness.
    
• And... seriously, that's when it hit me. These whiskies are meant to exude luxury and richness. The event was perfect, for me... they gave me exactly what they said they would... a full day of being treated, pampered and catered too in the one of the most luxurious of settings I have ever experienced. 

But wait, the day didn't end there. We were summoned outside where we went for a walk around the grounds and ended up sitting in a small cottage, enjoying another whisky in a large tumbler with a carved ice ball. We had the opportunity to talk to Georgie one on one and finished the afternoon off relaxing in big comfortable chairs. On the chauffeured drive home as I was hugging the care package we took with us (valued at £25) I started thinking immediately as to what type of blog I was going to write. What would I say? How would I address my day, the whiskies, the cost, the size and I simply stopped thinking for a moment. I had the most fabulous of days that day. I had climbed the rugged face of Benrinnes that morning and spent the afternoon drinking Mortlachs, eating deliciously sinful foods and enjoying the company of many people. It was the best day of the Sprits of Speyside festival.

My favorite (combining affordability/flavor profiles) was the Special Strength only because it was so different and refreshing. Then the Rare Old, 18 and last 25 year old. Don't get me wrong the 25 was perfection in a glass but even with my disposable income not in my price range. I'd have to come into a small windfall or save my $$ for that one. (If you are in Canada, Rare Old is available at the Kensington Wine Market in Calgary for $105.00)

My thoughts are simple on this matter: I am a huge Mortlach fan, I have tasted the 4 whiskies and if/when they become available in Canada or if I'm travelling (I already bought the Rare Old) I will buy them. Not because they are really expensive or collectible. 

No... I will buy them because they are good whiskies and I can afford most of them. I'd put them in the same category as my Karuizawa or other "special" drams that I take out from time to time to drink and share with good friends.

The part I'm still not sure how to address is the fact that so many people caused havoc on this subject in March yet if you look a month later or even today, nobody says anything about Mortlach anymore other than it's a cracker of a whisky if you can find/afford it. Like all other crazy moments on social media these days, the hype died down and the trolls moved on to the next topic of misery. No surprise I suppose.

I for one, can say I paid my four bits to go and see the high diving act and I am extremely glad I didn't listen to the opinions of the preachers. If you are really a die hard Mortlach fan and get a chance to sample these, please do and make an opinion for yourself. If ever you are in my neighborhood, I'll pour you a few drams guaranteed because good whisky is meant to be shared, not insulted. 

Hype...?  No hype... These whiskies are exactly what they were designed to be, key word: DESIGNED.

Luxury, Special, Unique and MOST Enjoyable. 

Lassie

New book, new direction... Ms Riannon Walsh

I had been in a mood lately similar to restless but couldn't quite put my finger on it. Was I ancy because I was suffering from post-Scotland/back to real world blues? Picking up dog poop and cleaning your toilet can do that post-holiday, right?

Was I looking for the next adventure or was it simply a hunger for something different? Don't get me wrong because my passion for whisky and everything that I love about it was still burning strongly but I just felt like something was amiss. Summer was half over but I had not really read anything and I usually love to read so I thought that maybe a few good books would help me figure out what exactly I was going through. The first book I picked up just wasn't cutting it. It was supposed to be funny and satirical in nature but I didn't feel like it was or maybe I simply wasn't in the mood for that. What the heck did I want? What was I looking for? 

Weeks went by and my hunt brought me to a book entitled "Whisky Dreams: Having your DRAM and eating it too" by Riannon Walsh. The top of the book is what caught my eye: bottle to banquet with the world's finest whiskies. Hmmmm, I thumbed through it quickly. What the hell I thought... and so it was packed for a business trip. Not only did I finish it in less than a few days, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it had much more than just recipes in it. 

Ms. Walsh lays out the book in a manner that you not only experience a culinary whisky journey but bits and pieces of her own personal voyage through whisky meccas. There's a glossary, a pronunciation chart and add on top of that the great advice on seafood, chocolate, cheese, a full chapter of saluting bourbon & ryes and you have a complete 6 course extravaganza for the whisky soul. Well, at least I did. 

I didn't need to read another book about the history of the spirit nor was I interested in the 1,256,222 whiskies I need to try before I die (no offence...) I wanted something creative and different to latch onto. This great paperback is just over 200 pages so it's an easy read but it did something no other book on whiskies has for me. It intertwined two of my favorite passions: Whisky and food and brought them into the limelight. This is a guide on how you can take some of your favorite recipes: salad dressings, stews, burgers, muffins and create a fusion of flavors like you never have experienced before. 

If anyone has ever attended Martine Nouet's dinners you know what I'm talking about. Suddenly a chocolate torte's flavors explode in your mouth and you are left speechless. Well I for one always am...

 There is something magical about whisky and I often feel that way about food as well. They are a sensory experience which makes each of them quite memorable. I will remember certain whiskies and meals for the rest of my life because of how well balanced or put together they were. Ok, so enough gushing about that (I am making myself hungry)...

Back to the book! How did the recipes stack up? Very well indeed they did; often surpassing my expectations and surprising me with the simplicity yet balance of flavors involved. Rhubarb no longer has to be the bland backdrop in a crumble. It comes alive with 2 teaspoons (yes that's it!!) of Buffalo Trace Bourbon. An elaborate mixture of tangy sweet goodness that made my mouth water. It was fabulous. I served a beef stew from the book and within seconds of 10 of us digging in not a word was spoken. The eerie quiet hung in the air until someone finally said: "Can someone butter me a biscuit".  It was glorious, tasty and extremely satisfying. 

Cheese/whisky pairings are something I tend to avoid because I have attended a few too many "duds" in my day. Let's face it: Costco low fat mozzarella does not pair well with a Bowmore, I don't care what any whisky representative says?! BUT... Riannon gives great advice on pages 180-182 and it is all about creativity and the importance of choosing quality ingredients, palate cleansing and textures. It is so well explained and I suddenly look forward to trying many of the combinations she suggests. 

The last chapter is entitled: The final course, the best whiskies and the correct way to enjoy them. At first when I saw that as part of the table of contents I rolled my eyes... Oh great, another "Thou shalt, MUST and brimstone fire rules and regulations about not swirling, the need to throw your whisky dram across the room, blah blah blah"... Fuuuuuuuuuu - dge.....  

So, imagine my surprise when I got to that page and read: "Out in the world of whisky reviewers, "experts", writers and even master distillers (who should know better), there seems to be the notion that there are certain humans capable of decreeing what tastes good and what doesn't. The one thing I am absolutely sure of is that we are all capable of knowing what we like and don't like. And in the end no matter what an "expert" tells you or preaches or writes, individual preferences are all that matters. You are your own expert, specialist, and the one who should declare what you like.

I raised my hands in the air and shook my fists in delight!  Why... because there is a movement slowly creeping in that is changing how we enjoy our whiskies and I am part of that. There is no right or wrong way, there are no best ever whiskies!? Gone are the days that state you should never add ice, that blends are crap and (GASP!!!) that you should NEVER use good whisky for cooking. Screw that crap! There is a new generation of whisky enthusiasts coming in fast and furious and they do not want your stuffy old boy boring scotch. Nooooo! They want new, innovative and different. It is the new age of whisky and there it was, in print... This is exactly what this book is all about. New ways to enjoy whisky, innovative whisky fusion creations and do it however you like. How refreshing!! 

I had a chance to talk to Ms. Walsh and ask her a few questions about the book and her new endeavors. For those of you fairly new to the whisky world of today, Riannon was the original mastermind of the Whiskies of the World Expo that started in 1999. She has a long list of accomplishments including author, consultant, business partner and no matter what direction she took, she was always at the forefront of trends. Talk to the likes of John Glaser, Jim Rutledge or Fred Minnick and they all have fantastic things to share about her as a well respected person and innovator in the field. So it came as a surprise to me that when I tried to look her up on the internet she seemed to be almost non-existent after 2010. We discussed that as well. When you are one of the people constantly breaking the trail for others you eventually get exhausted and need a break. 

It took some time but eventually she took the idea of writing this book off the back burner and I am so happy she did. So now that the book is done, where to? How about opening a distillery of course! More will be revealed soon and although I may not be at liberty to divulge part of our conversation I can say this: Once her plan is actioned Riannon will be standing at the very front of the line busy fighting, embracing and creating the next trend in spirits. I am excited for her and cannot wait to see how it all turns out.

I may have been lacking something in my whisky "diet" over the summer but this book certainly began to fill the void and has re-inspired me to get busy in the kitchen. I have already tried over 10 recipes and from the looks of my book (oil, strawberry and bourbon stains) it will stay in the kitchen and become a staple.  

Ms. Walsh's book is available online through Amazon as well as other book stores. You can also check out the website: www.whisky-dreams.com.  It is well worth the money!!

For me, this was a re-awakening of the senses which I realized I really needed. I strongly recommend the book for anyone who loves to cook, be creative or who simply wants to read and enjoy the advice given in the book about all aspects of what we call the water of life. 

A job well done by a whisky persona who has not lost her touch and is back at the helm of her next whisky adventure. My hat off to you Ms. Walsh!  Happy times are ahead.

Lassie

Guest Blog & Review of last Whisky Show of 2013 - NB Spirits Festival, Raise your glass

Phew!!!!  What a year. From British Columbia all the way to Nova Scotia, like the good Canadian Stompin Tom said: I've been everywhere man! I promised to review five Canadian whisky events this year and this is the last: The New Brunswick Spirits Festival. It is the longest running festival in Canada and in my opinion the best. BUT... since I'm from here and I've been to this show for years I thought it might be a really good idea to see it through the eyes of a "newbie". So not long after I wrote about the Forty Creek weekend I attended back in September some discussions were had and as a result my very good friend Rick Culver came all the way down from Toronto and is my guest reviewer. I can't thank him enough for doing this. We had a fabulous time together and I only wish I had time to share even 1/2 the stories he told that had me bent over in laughter. I hope Rick and others choose our wonderful festival in years to come. My love & respect. Thanks Rick!

Review of the N.B. Spirits festival

If you want to go straight to the review, scroll down but if you want to read why I'm doing this, hopefully get a chuckle and a debatable opinion then continue reading:  “Come to our whisky festival!” they said! “We've been to three of yours”, and so the challenge was issued. Now I already know that Canadian east coast hospitality is among the best. Want proof? Ask the world wide citizens about the days/weeks after 9/11 when local residents near six east coast airports looked after passengers of 131 grounded planes by taking homemade meals to the airport to feed these stranded travelers and then took them home so they could shower or sleep somewhere other than in the plane. I think all of the east coast is like that. Vacation there and odds are you will end up at some local Céilidh or kitchen party and treated like a long lost family member. Anyway, challenge accepted!

I met Johanne and Graham through social media and offered them transportation from Toronto Airport to their hotel for Spirit of TO and Forty Creek W/E. Written words on blogs, email and twitter don't have tone or expression but I think you can still tell things about people by the syntax and comments they make. We can all become quickly tired of the “sickly sweet” comments from bloggers who state the latest whisky they are sampling is the next great thing, or how some individuals only rant and rage against the machine. I thoroughly enjoyed their blog because of its style: Refreshingly honest with a tad bit of sassiness. (No. I'm not suggesting someone should be called whiskySassy, plus Graham wouldn't like to be called that anyway.) I enjoy blogs that offer more than “What I'm drinking praising this week” and prefer more of an analysis of what is going on within that whisky ≈ consumer interaction. I think their blog offered that. Holding them captive in my car gave me a chance to get to know them. Verdict: good #whiskyfabric folks.

Johanne thought she may be perceived as biased reviewing the NB Spirits Festival (comments from a previous event review). Me, I've been to a few whisky shows...  OK.OK. I go to them all!  

HI. MY NAME IS RICK. I'M A WHISKY SHOW ADDICT. (And the audience echoes back, Hi Rick).

In my work I organize and participate in lots of conferences and seminars so I've always been surprised that organizers don’t have a feedback form at the show. Maybe they don't need one as most sell out but wouldn't they want to know which presenters are worth having there, or which topics people really want to hear about?  Comment at the bottom if you think I am wrong.

Just so you know where I'm coming from my ideal whisky event starts at 9am. Seminars on: how whisky is made, production methods, cask management and grain selections. I would like to learn about the difference grain selection has on the outcome while sampling Bruichladdich’s barley selections or what Buffalo Traces' Warehouse X hopes to discover while sampling some of their finest. I'd love to hear about the Rothes Distillers Biomass Combined Heat and Power plant while sipping on a selection from the Edrington group. Give attendees the appropriate time to savor a high end whisky – just 5 minutes to nose & taste something like Glen Grant Diamond Jubilee 60 year old, really!?

Try having a show without offering copious amounts of whisky on the show floor, just in the seminar rooms plus a luncheon and/or dinner and run classes 9am to 9pm. I really think you may develop better brand devotees that way. New York WhiskyFest started classes at 9am & among the best speakers: Gerry Tosh from Highland Park. It influenced my decision on what to buy at Duty Free on my way home. Johanne wrote a blog not long ago stating how 5 attendees purchased Red Breast & Amrut after Davin’s Master Class at NB Spirits. Proof a good presenter influences. 

So my challenge to the festival organizers: Offer a higher class of educational events and you'll get a higher class of attendees. If not, then continue mass consumption and attendees who are hell bent on getting their ticket’s worth and puking on the show floor or in washrooms like at the recent Hopscotch and WhiskyFest events.

Here's the Review:

Recap: I've been to four previous festivals this year including WhiskyFest New York. I agree with most of Johanne's ratings on her previous festivals and would have only varied by half a mark on any of them. We didn't always attend similar classes so our experiences varied but I didn't think the overall analysis of any event was far from each other’s final summation. So let's begin. I used Johanne’s template: Cost, Venue, Classes, Main Event, and Overall Personal Experience.

COST: (travel, accommodations, events, classes)

Travel:  I took a return flight ($300 apx) to get from Toronto to Fredericton, whereas others from Ontario drove. There were a few from Quebec and I heard there was some from the Prairies. People seemed to think that this event was worth traveling to. I don't think they were wrong.

Accommodations: The event is held at the Delta Fredericton. A 3.5 star hotel that runs appx. $160 but has a festival deal of $129. There are always advantages to staying at the same hotel as the venue but this sold out quickly. I stayed at the Best Western which runs about $100 to $130. A taxi to the event cost $6.

Events: Wow! It offered a multitude of special events. The festival started off Wednesday evening with a spectacular dinner with food/whisky pairings put together by the incomparable Martine Nouet. Martine is a world renowned food and whisky expert and former editor of Whisky Magazine-France. At $125 it easily sold out. Thursday had a multiple number of master classes to attend ($15). Classes ran from 5pm – 6pm, 6:30 – 8pm, and 8:30 – 10pm. Mixed in among them was Martine Nouet’s other special class ($30): An Art and Whisky pairing with four local artists creating on canvas a visualization of the selected whiskies before your very eyes. The art was auctioned off at the end of the session. This easily could have been a main event and hopefully will be next year. Friday started with lunch ($50) at 11:45 and again presented with Martine hosting a spectacular selection of foods and complimenting whiskies. This woman deserves all the praise she receives. After lunch there were additional master classes ($15) and the Ultimate Master Class ($50). Thirteen (13) high end drams that were all amazing.

Now, before the main showroom opened at 6:45 there was through, the creative marketing genius behind this show, an onsite mini liquor store set up by ANBL (Provincial Liquor Establishment). The line-up was probably twice as long to get into the store as it was to get into the main showroom. Smart people. They were certainly assisted by the 80 page (yes 80!) pocket guide listing a floor plan with guide and a listing of all whiskies as well as booths, plus prices of all the whiskies including a 1948 Linkwood that would be available at the onsite store.

Main event ticket was $75 and offered a $10 coupon for the onsite store, a free taxi chit if you were not staying at the Delta and other discount coupons. This is a tremendous undertaking which served the

participants well. A number of limited whiskies sold out quickly and I was told that by 9:30 the store had sales of $167,000 dollars. IMPRESSIVE. 

Total Cost: $220 for tickets and I stayed with Johanne & Graham so no cost for hotel. 

This easily scores an A++

VENUE: The venue had ample sized meeting rooms and technology for power point displays. I wasn't staying at the hotel but my commute from the nearby hotel was a minor inconvenience. I did wonder about using downtown hotels and the new convention center to make it walking distance from downtown pubs like the Lunar Rogue. This event spans three days. Wednesday to Friday. If the event doesn't start till noon or after would people go to the Sports Hall of Fame, Science East or some other close attraction? Could that Art and Whisky pairing be held in the local art gallery? If the event were to grow pass the 750 attendees could it do so by having more classes? I think these individuals are so organized that they could pull off a fully packed three day festival. I would hope so. What about a half day devoted to rum? Sales of Gin are on the rise. Maybe a Mixologist class or two?  It’s endless.  In 1981 a friend of mine suggested that like-minded individuals get together to celebrate their common interest. Now everyone worldwide has heard of Friday the 13th in Port Dover.

Location: Although the event was not walking distance to downtown, taxi rides were quick to arrive and take you downtown or to your hotel.

Food: The dinner and lunch food pairings were simply amazing. While lined up in the hallway awaiting entranced to the Main room there were tables of food from local venders. What a great idea! Once in the main room there was plenty of additional good food. These people wanted to make sure you weren't drinking on an empty stomach. Again great planning.

Geographic Location:On a larger scale Fredericton is just one or two hours from Moncton or Saint John, the other two large cities in New Brunswick, four hours from Halifax, or eight hours from Montreal QC. I think it's worth the drive. I flew there from Toronto and got a ride to downtown. I don't think the Fredericton Bus service goes to the airport, but it's only a 15 minute taxi ride to downtown and costs just over $20. Suggestion:  I hope organizers would consider offer early registration for out of province visitors in future years. This event has the capability of being a tourist attraction.

I would have rated it higher if the location was centralized and there were more classes during this three day festival.

Total Score: B

CLASSES

Most of the Master Classes were only $15, except for Martine’s Art & Whisky which was $30. All were great value for money! I attended the Isle of Arran presented by Senior Brand Manager Louisa Young. Lots of knowledge there.  I moved on to the Laphroaig tasting presented by Master Ambassador Simon Brooking from Scotland, and the Gordon & MacPhail / Benromach tasting by Export Executive Nicole Hizzet from Scotland. Even with her youth, Nicole showed her training & knowledge was up to the task as she dealt with the multitude of questions thrown at her.  I have to say all were great and I would not hesitate to sit in on an educational session with any of them again. One note:  The session with Simon gave evidence why he has been awarded Keeper of the Quaich and Icons of Whisky – Ambassador of the Year for 2011, 2012 & 2013. One woman there commented that she found her new love but didn't say if it was the Laphroaig or Simon Brooking.

I already commented on Lunch: Simply delicious. My advice, if Martine Nouet is hosting: GO!

Next up: The Ultimate Master Class. Twelve of the most amazing whiskies, total worth $9900 if you were to buy them. Everyone got a tasting card to be crossed off after you tried that sample. 

A last minute surprise was Marc Laverdière Brand Ambassador for Macallan, Highland Park and Famous Grouse Brands added Macallan M to the tasting. It is the only Canadian Festival to have this $5000 whisky poured for 2013. 

Con:  Not a sit down event and much like a main event where you go from table to table. It worked out to be about 10 minutes per dram. I don't think any of them received the respect they were due and unfortunately some people seem to treat them like shooters. Now there were a few drams that I was not familiar with so I ask questions. I want that knowledge. Unfortunately for me Marc was the only Brand Ambassador in the room. Members of the local whisky club volunteers do the pouring & they had only found out what they were pouring about 15 minutes before the doors opened. I was advised later that normally they are briefed about a week in advance but not this year and as a result, I thought I met my first male Booth Bunny. Yes. He was a handsome gentleman. I publicly apologized to him later that evening when I found out they didn’t know what they were pouring till they walked in the room. Looking back I guess I am surprised that the Brand Ambassadors didn't request a 5-10 minute presentation per whisky. Their loss.

Types:  There were several types of Classes as previously mentioned. It is totally refreshing to see thinking outside the normal parameters with the Art and Whisky pairing. Kudos to the people who planned that! 

Time: It was great to have big spaces between classes to meet up with your colleagues and compare notes. Only at the Ultimate Master Class did I feel rushed. For me personally, there seemed to be too big of a gap between the Thursday evening and Friday lunch as well as the Friday Lunch and the evening sessions so I’d suggest adding a few more master classes or repeat some of them that are high demand.

And now for the downside: At the Thursday tastings there was no water glasses or spittoons/pails set up. There were two or three water bottles per table of 6-8 and if you wanted to rinse your mouth between tasting you had to empty one glass to do it. I considered this a major flaw. More water, a water glass and something to empty your whiskies in really are a basic item and an absolute must at any tastings.  This also happened at the Ultimate Master Class; mind you the spittoons would not have been needed. 

Score:

Damn. How do you balance what may have been one of the best classes offered at any festival when one of the most basic items like water was overlooked. 

Total Score: B

MAIN EVENT

Availability of Whiskies: Over 250 whiskies! A festival cocktail table with mixologists serving up a variety of drinks to suit your taste buds. I don't think anybody was disappointed here. What was disappointing again was the lack of water and spittoons at the tables. They were there, but in the middle and strategically placed at the four corners, hard to find and not on the floor map. I didn’t see anyone leave a table between tastings to use them. Johanne saw at least 10 people shaking the remains of their glass on the carpeted floor and I heard vendors complain and go get their own spittoon. When you hear the vendors complain you know it's a problem.

Venue: A bit crowded at times but only in front of the booth everyone else wanted to sample from. Ha Ha.

Services: It was evident that a lot of planning went into this event. They've been doing it 18 years. The Festival Guide should be duplicated everywhere (I was told it is also used at the Halifax show). Having the onsite store is an amazing bonus. If I was a distributor I would demand that. There are so many background plans that go on I have no idea about. But I do know that the Diabetic Association runs the coat check and Frank Scott brings in students that are studying tourism/hospitality to pour water, serve food and wait on attendees.  They do this for free and in return Frank goes to their college and provides them with an introductory class about whiskies, also for free. Did I mention the Festival also provides free taxi service to anyone not staying at the Delta? Safety is always a concern.

Knowledge of exhibitors: No problem here. The top product reps were in full force. If I had a question someone couldn't answer they called over someone who could. Great job by all the brand representatives.  NO BOOTH BUNNIES… well except for one table which brand we won’t mention…

Total Score: B

OVERALL PERSONAL EXPERIENCES: Great people, good venue, fantastic whisky. How can you not enjoy that!   

Score: A+

So, if you tally up all the scores the total overall score for this festival is, drum roll please!

That is the best score I would give any of the festivals I've been to this year.  Now I did hear one of the organizers say that “We may not be the biggest but we aim to be the best”. You certainly don't have to be the biggest to be the best. My current plans are to go to the Ultimate Whisky Festival in Las Vegas. 

It is said that what happens in Vegas should stay in Vegas. But I gotta tell you that what happens in New Brunswick is so great the world should know about it!

Rick Culver (@rmculver)

Whisky Writer Circle - Profile Martine Nouet - the breath of whisky...

Demeter, Goddess of Grain

Years ago when I started to amass literature about whisky it was quite apparent there were very few female writers, well except one. I mostly saw her articles and whisky ratings in a few magazines that my father in law bought. Then I went "looking" and found a book Martine wrote entitled:  Les routes du Malt. The book was impossible to find in North America but 75 euros in UK, plus shipping.. Hmmph! I settled on the fact that I would keep looking. Since then, I have had the pleasure of meeting Martine several times and participated in her tastings or whisky/food pairings. She is a delight to watch in action and one of the best presenters I have come across. She is truly passionate about what she does and there is no doubt in my mind the woman is an artist and lover of all things whisky. Her palate is refined, her honesty quite startling; having once described the flavor of a whisky as a piece of wood rotting in the woods (not an exact quote but something like that). She is respected by her peers and loved by many enthusiasts. I for one ensure I see her every year at our Spirits Festival in New Brunswick (longest running whisky show in Canada):  

http://www.whiskynb.ca/Fest10/

Martine is also the only woman that has been invited and accepted as a Certified Malt Maniac. 

http://www.maltmaniacs.net

I've had the pleasure of meeting 10 of these fantastic people in the last year alone and so I asked a few why they thought Martine was the only female and the answer simply put:  Because there isn't that many women in the world involved in whisky and for those who are none, to date, have a nose/palate like she does. She truly is the "Goddess" amongst the giants in my mind and I can only aspire to being as good as she is one day.

Messieurs & mesdames je vous présente:  Martine Nouet.

Q1:  So how did you get “here”?  When you were a little girl, I’m sure you didn’t say:  “When I grow up I want to be a whisky expert or writer”?

"When I was a little girl, I wanted to be… an explorer! Maybe I have achieved this goal in a way! Where I was born and lived, in Normandy, whisky was a totally unknown territory. I suppose the word itself did not say anything to the adults. Though some may have had a wee dram of a blend offered by the “liberators” in 1944 on the Day D landing beaches. This is when blended whisky started to be drunk in France.

Even though I had no idea I would become a whisky writer, I have always had a passion for writing. I studied literature and languages at university and I have always wanted to become a journalist. I started in politics (I was quite a radical in my teenage years… not sure I have changed that much) then I shifted to gourmet food. I had dedicated pages in a professional magazine where I presented chefs and covered the best of French gastronomy. About twenty years ago, I visited Scotland and that’s where the magic started. I loved Scotland so much that I wanted to know more about the culture, the history and whisky. The first distillery I visited was Tamdhu in Speyside. I found the making of whisky fascinating. And here I am now."

Q2:  What motivates you to stay in this part of the industry?  Sometimes it can be quite unkind and very few can make a living doing this?

"Unkind? I have never experienced that. On the opposite, I have always been warmly welcomed. I won’t say it was always easy in the beginning as a woman but I gained respect and esteem from whisky-makers, whisky lovers and whisky writers. At least this is how I feel! I love my professional life, even if it gets really exhausting at times. I have been lucky to find wonderful people on my way. One of them is my dear friend Michael Jackson, whom I miss so much. He helped me and encouraged me constantly. I am glad my enthusiasm still stirs up my passion. If I lost it, I would immediately move to something else. I am not a career person. I have many interests in life other than spirits. As I said previously, writing is as important as breathing! It seems I am lucky to make a living of my whisky and food writer job then."

Q3:  What sacrifices or tough decisions have you made to get to where you are now?

"I don’t like the word “sacrifice”. I can’t see any. I prefer efforts. I have had my dark times which made me doubt of myself, especially when I began working on food and whisky pairing twenty years ago and when everyone said I was crazy, that it would never happen and that whisky would never come to the table. See where we are now? Maybe I have made mine that famous quote of Pascal: "I doubt therefore I am". 

I know I am stubborn and that has often played tricks on me. But it can be rewarding at times too. I would not call my decision to come and live on Islay “tough”. It certainly implied a lot of problems to solve when I moved from Paris to Islay but this is the best thing I have ever done in my life. Travelling extensively does not help to have a balanced private life but I think I live in harmony (with myself at least!)"

Q4:  What have you been working on lately? Care to share what some of your upcoming plans are?  Anything big coming out soon?

"I have extended my sensory work to other fields than food; I have done art and whisky pairings, music and whisky pairings, dance and whisky pairings. To me the sensory approach to whisky is a whole and there are more emotional connections than just food pairings.

2013 was my travelling year, I went to Australia, including Tasmania and Asia. These were enriching trips; I tasted different cuisines, met different cultures. In Tasmania I visited two fascinating distilleries, Nant and Hellyers Road. In China, Hong Kong and Taipei, I was challenged with pairing single malts or blends with Asian cuisine.

I got wonderful experiences to feed into my blog/website launched in 2013.   

  http://martinenouet.com/

I was also delighted to take part in Jean Lenoir’s Nez du Whisky. A wonderful educational tool which trains people to identify and memorize the aromatic profile of whisky through nosing 54 aromas encapsulated in small bottles. It was recently launched in Paris and London.

I still have a big trip before Christmas. I will host a dinner and seminars at the New Brunswick Spirits the third week of November (20/22^nd November). I love that festival. People are curious, warm and open. Yes I have projects in the pipeline. My big challenge for 2014 will be to write my cooking book. Disclosing it here confirms the commitment. You are trapped Martine Nouet!

I have another big project for 2014 but it would be too premature to comment it now."

Q5:  If you could go back in time and talk to Martine Nouet in 1984, what would you want to tell her?

"Don’t waste your time caring for those who don’t care for you. Divorce now! I did but later!! And I would encourage myself to live along the line I do now: Live the life you love and love the life you live."

Martine added the following to our interview and I'd love to share it here:  "I am amazed at how global whisky has become. I have especially appreciated it this year as I have travelled to new destinations. I am always interested in the different ways of consuming whisky but I am also appalled at the excesses of some people. Alcoholic drinks are to be handled carefully. I won’t make any allowance for drunkenness. It is intolerable. Hence our important part to play in recommending moderation. I think I am an extreme person but certainly moderate on this matter.

I can see a new trend coming in the whisky and food sector with spectacular experiments supposedly based on scientific research on sensory evaluation and resulting in theatrical performances. Impressive maybe but most often shallow. I remember that phrase in one of Dylan’s songs: you don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. 

I don’t need molecular gastronomy to make me find harmonious pairings!"

End of interview...

There are people I meet in my travels and I call them WYSIWYG (wizzy-whigs...hehe)  Acronym means:  What You See Is What You Get.  This happens a lot with many of the writers I have been blessed to meet over the last 5 years and truly there isn't one of them that hasn't fell in that category.  Grounded, smart, dedicated and passionate about what they do, but above all REAL. They are truly amazing people to talk to, and not just about whisky.  

Martine has been nicknamed the Queen of the Stills and there's a reason for that. She is graceful, regal and above all conducts herself in a manner that you can't be anything else but "in awe" about.  

In passing, if anyone ever finds a copy of her book:  Les routes du malt", please let me know. It's still on my bucket list of whisky books to try and get for my bookcase.

In the meantime, I remain the lovely lassie in waiting who some day wants to grow up and be like the lovely Martine.  

Johanne